Exploring Vientiane, Laos's Tiny Capital

Andy Hill

Many backpackers in Southeast Asia go first to Bangkok, and then the next capital city that they visit is Phnom Penh. This is an interesting experience because the size of the latter is much smaller than the former.

It has a carnival funhouse effect, or it feels like being shot through the eye of a needle. When arriving in the Cambodian capital, Bangkok suddenly seems all the more gargantuan.

The little capital that does

Now, when going from Phnom Penh to Vientiane, the capital of Laos, the traveler experiences the same thing. Vientiane is roughly the size of a postage stamp. The first time I went there, while walking around, I thought that the rest of the city had to be stashed somewhere else.

I liked it, though. In fact, Vientiane’s size is nice because you could actually see all of it, from one side to the other proper, in a brisk hour’s walk.

The center of Vientiane is arrayed along the Mekong River, whose banks are usually sprinkled with people jogging, strolling or sitting on the steps looking across at Thailand (it’s that close).

From that laid-back vestige it is easy to extend out to the rest of the town, which gracefully offers itself to the pedestrian.

Temples and tangents

There is a remarkable number of temples, each with that particular pitched roof and those red and yellow hues that Buddhist temples in Laos all more or less share. They are exceptionally well-maintained and elaborate, paneled with massive, impressive vignettes of the Buddha’s life.

After taking in the spiritual scenery, there are some fantastic places to belly up and enjoy a Beerlao, the ubiquitous and delicious brew found throughout the country. My haunts became the Alexia Bar on the river road, a Mexican bar and restaurant with a lively music scene and Red Mekong, a local favorite.

There are many nice side streets to walk through and shopping to be done at some of the newer boutiques and NGO shops popping up around Vientiane featuring amazing, locally-made goods and handicrafts.

Although Luang Prabang receives visitors due to its well-deserved UNESCO World Heritage status and Vang Vieng attracts tourists to its regrettable tubing scene, Vientiane is for most people a stepping stone. However, visitors to the gorgeous and incredibly friendly Laos People’s Democratic Republic would be remiss not stopping at Vientiane.

It’s not like it takes long to explore, anyways.